Travelogue What Life Feels Like in Tromsø
Tromsø (Northern Sami: Romsa) is a municipality in Troms county, in the Norwegian Arctic. (Photo: Daniel Mikkelsen)
The day we landed in Tromsø, it was around 9 a.m. in end week of December. We had to wait at the airport until almost 2 p.m. because hotel check-in was only at 3. While waiting, the airport itself amazed me.
They were offering free drinks to everyone: coffee, tea, even hot water, completely free. I have travelled to many places, but this was something I hadn’t seen before. Another strange yet fascinating thing was the daylight that I was seeing from inside.
The sunlight or the grey light lasted from around 10 a.m. to 12 p.m., and then it slowly disappeared into darkness. By the time we were buying bus tickets to head into the city, everything outside was dark. It felt like 6 or 7 in the evening, even though it was still early afternoon.
Yet, the bus arrived exactly on time, gliding through icy roads as if this were the most normal thing in the world. The roads in Tromsø are far from smooth. They are bumpy, uneven, and covered in snow and ice, which honestly made me nervous.
Driving any vehicle there felt risky to me, especially with so many passengers onboard. But the driver handled it with incredible confidence and precision. It almost felt like watching a pilot land a plane, careful, steady, and efficient.
The streets were glowing with Christmas lights and decorations
That same evening, I booked my Northern Lights tour. Before boarding the bus, I was starving, and I remembered hearing about the world’s northernmost McDonald’s. It instantly became a must-visit for me. The place was crowded but impressively efficient.
Everyone ordered through machines, waited calmly, and the staff even served food directly to the tables. People were clicking photos with the famous McDonald’s logo, buying souvenirs, and soaking in the moment.
And outside, the streets were glowing with Christmas lights and decorations, making the city feel warm despite the cold weather.
After the food in the same evening, I boarded the Northern Lights bus from the Radisson Blu Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in Tromsø if you search on Google, this will be the first to appear.
The tour started around 7:30 p.m., and once again, we were driving through slippery, snow-covered roads. The driver was positively confident. I later learned that most of these drivers are locals, specially trained to handle such extreme conditions.
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Even knowing that, I felt a sense of risk throughout the journey.
After almost five hours, close to midnight, we finally reached the perfect spot. And then it happened. The Northern Lights showed up. Watching them dance across the sky was one of the most magical experiences of my life.
The guide clicked photos for us and organised a beautifully planned picnic right there on the snow under the northern lights, so whenever they appear, we all can see them. There was a bonfire, marshmallows roasting, cookies, warm drinks, all of this at minus 20 degrees.
People were slipping on the snow, laughing, singing songs in the middle of the night, and enjoying the cold together. What surprised me the most was the sheer efficiency of the people.
In such extreme cold, where survival itself feels like a challenge, people were doing their jobs with calm dedication: drivers, tour guides, and staff.
Everyone shows up, does their job well, and creates a strong sense of safety through efficiency
I noticed again how many women were leading the tours, confidently guiding groups through harsh weather, which felt deeply empowering to witness. That night made me understand why Norway consistently ranks among the top five happiest countries in the world.
Everyone shows up, does their job well, and creates a strong sense of safety through efficiency. Tromsø is a city above the Arctic Circle, nearly 2,200 kilometres from the North Pole. In winter, daylight lasts only a few hours.
There is limited agriculture, long darkness, and extreme cold, yet people are genuinely happy. I couldn’t stop thinking about that.
The Arctic Cathedral is another unforgettable place. From there, you can see the entire city of Tromsø, capture stunning photographs, and truly experience winter in its raw form. There is still so much more to explore: reindeer experiences, fjords, and endless Arctic landscapes.
On my last day, I had to carry my bag all the way to the bus station, almost 350 meters from my hotel. It looked quite close, but the
hilly roads and thick snow made it very difficult. The snow was almost up to my knees.
Still, I walked, made my own footprints, and slowly created a path to cross at 6:30 a.m. I played with the snow just to feel it, and since it was still snowing, it felt like I hadn’t missed anything.
And this is how I would say that some experiences are hard to put into words, and Tromsø is one of them.
Note: What stood out the most to me was how people live well even in the toughest conditions, with Norway ranking around 7th in the world for happiness as of 2025!